3D Knitting & WHOLEGARMENT: OEM/ODM Technical Guide for Zero-Seam Knitwear Production

What Is 3D Knitting?

Definition

3D knitting refers to advanced flat-knitting processes where the garment is engineered in three dimensions directly on the machine. Instead of producing flat panels, the machine shapes the garment volume—sleeves, pockets, curves, ribs, collars—within a single integrated structure.

What Is WHOLEGARMENT®?

WHOLEGARMENT® (by Shima Seiki) is the top-tier version of 3D knitting, producing completely seamless knitwear with:

• No shoulder seams

• No side seams

• No sleeve seams

• No armhole linking

• Minimal post-processing

Why This Matters

Seamless garments improve comfort, reduce factory labor, eliminate waste, and allow fluid shaping impossible with panel-based methods.

How 3D Knitting Works

Integrated Programming

The entire garment is programmed digitally:

• Body volume

• Sleeve curves

• Collar shaping

• Rib transitions

• Density changes

• Stitch patterns

Machine Execution

The machine knits continuously in 3D using:

• Multiple needle beds

• Tube construction

• X/Y/Z direction shaping

• Seamless joining (automatic)

Finishing

Finished garments require:

• Minimal linking (if any)

• Light steaming/blocking

• QC checking for stretch and dimensions

3D Knitting vs Traditional Panel Knitting

Key Differences

Construction

• Traditional: Panels → Linking → Seaming

• 3D: Entire garment produced in one pass

Comfort

• 3D knit = seamless comfort

• Panel knit = seam friction possible

Waste

• 3D knit produces almost zero waste

• Cut & sew can waste 10–20%

• Fully-fashioned wastes 1–3%

• 3D wastes <1%

Productivity

• Faster assembly

• Fewer sewing operations

Precision

• 3D shaping allows volume and curvature unmatched by panel knitting

Advantages of 3D Knitting for Brands

Comfort and Fit

Seamless Zones

No seams = no friction, no irritation.

Body-Mapping

Different zones can have different densities:

• Ventilation zones

• Compression zones

• Stretch zones

Perfect for performance apparel.

Sustainability

Near-Zero Waste

Garments are knitted to shape exactly.

Lower Energy & Water Use

Less washing, less finishing, less cutting.

Aesthetic Possibilities

Complex Shapes

3D knitting supports:

• Tubular knits

• Integrated pockets

• Seamless hoods

• Sculpted silhouettes

Unique Textures

Mixed stitch patterns in a single garment.

Manufacturing Efficiency

Minimizes Labor

No linking or overlock stitching.

Faster Bulk Production

Once programmed, the process is extremely efficient.

Best Applications of 3D Knitting

Sportswear & Performance

• Seamless base layers

• Compression tops

• Yoga/fitness knits

• Running layers

• Ventilated mesh zones

Athleisure

• Seamless hoodies

• Lounge tops

• Stretch-fit sweaters

• Streetwear seamless pullovers

Luxury Knitwear

• Seamless cashmere sweaters

• Sculpted fine-gauge dresses

• Integrated collar designs

• Sleek luxury basics

Shapewear & Intimates

• One-piece bodysuits

• Second-skin tops

• High-elasticity garments

Medical / Technical Garments

• Compression sleeves

• Supportive wraps

• Rehabilitation knitwear

The market for 3D knit-enabled products continues to expand.

Yarn Requirements for 3D Knitting

Yarn Properties Needed

Stability

Low hairiness and high uniformity prevent machine errors.

Consistent Twist

Uneven twist causes dimensional distortion.

Elastic Performance

Many 3D garments require elastane/nylon plating.

Best Yarn Types for 3D Knit

Nylon / Polyamide

• Strong

• Smooth

• Perfect for seamless activewear

Polyester Blends

• Quick-drying

• Lightweight

• Durable

Merino Wool

• Thermoregulating

• Ideal for seamless base layers

Modal / Tencel

• Soft

• Smooth

• Premium drape

Cashmere & Luxury Blends

• High-end seamless sweaters

Yarn Types to Avoid

• Highly hairy yarns (brushed, mohair)

• Very slubby yarns

• Low-twist viscose without support

These fibers can cause needle misses.

Gauge Compatibility in 3D Knitting

Typical Gauges Used

• 12GG–18GG for fine seamless garments

• 7GG–10GG for athleisure, mid-weight pieces

• 3GG–5GG rare but possible for sculpted outerwear

Fine-Gauge 3D Knit

Best for luxury and activewear.

Mid-Gauge 3D Knit

Best for fashion sweaters and loungewear.

Technical Challenges in 3D Knitting

Programming Complexity

3D knitting requires advanced CAD programming.

H4: Need for simulation

Software simulates garment curves before knitting.

Yarn Breakage

Hairy or unstable yarn may break during knitting.

Factory mitigation

• Balanced humidity

• Slow initial knitting speed

• Yarn waxing

Pattern Limitations

Textures must be machine-compatible.

Stitch transitions

Complex jacquards are harder in seamless garments.

Machine Cost

WHOLEGARMENT® machines are significantly more expensive.

OEM/ODM Workflow for 3D Knitting

Stage 1 — Technical Consultation

Factory discusses with brand:

• Fit

• Function

• Yarn type

• Performance zones

• Production gauge

Stage 2 — CAD Programming

3D garment model is created using:

• SDS-ONE APEX (Shima Seiki)

• M1Plus (STOLL)

Stage 3 — Knitting

Garment is produced in a single run.

Stage 4 — Finishing

• Light steaming

• Minor trimming

• No linking

Stage 5 — QC

QC checks:

• Dimensional accuracy

• Stretch recovery

• Hole stability

• Yarn tension

• Fabric evenness

Cost Expectations for 3D Knitwear

Cost Drivers

• High machine depreciation

• Skilled technician programming

• Slower fine-gauge knitting

• High cost of yarn (e.g., merino, cashmere)

Price Comparison

• Cheaper than fully-fashioned for labor savings

• More expensive than cut & sew due to machine requirements

• Higher than plain jersey due to programming time

Best Value Scenarios

• High-volume athleisure

• Luxury fine-gauge basics

• Base layers
  These categories benefit most from seamless efficiency.

Sustainability Advantages

Near Zero Waste

Only yarn fed into the garment is consumed.

 Energy Efficiency

Less washing, less pressing, fewer manual steps.

Longevity

Seamless garments last longer, reducing consumer waste.