Cashmere Yarn Guide & OEM Production Requirements
Cashmere is the pinnacle of natural fiber luxury, known for its unmatched softness, lightweight warmth, and elegant drape. With fibre fineness typically in the 14–16 micron range, it delivers a sensory experience that no other natural fiber can replicate. However, cashmere is also one of the most technically demanding materials for OEM/ODM knitwear factories: its shorter staple length, delicate surface, high fiber value, and sensitivity during knitting and washing require extreme precision in every stage of production.
For global fashion labels, sourcing cashmere knitwear manufacturing means evaluating yarn quality, machine settings, pilling resistance, shrinkage control, dye precision, and final finishing techniques. This cashmere yarns guide provides a technical, factory-oriented breakdown of how cashmere behaves, how to select the correct yarn grade, and how an experienced Chinese knitwear manufacturer ensures consistent, high-end results for brands.
Understanding Cashmere Fiber Science
Cashmere is not a type of wool—it is the fine, soft undercoat fiber harvested from the Cashmere goat. Its rarity and manual harvesting process contribute to its premium status.
Fiber Fineness (14–16 Micron)
Cashmere fibers are exceptionally fine compared to other materials:
Cashmere: 14–16μm
Superfine Merino: 17–18μm
Regular Wool: 25–30μm
This fineness is the key driver behind:
Feather-soft hand-feel
Luxurious drape
High thermal insulation
Lightweight warmth
Manufacturing implication:
Because cashmere fibers are finer and shorter, they require:
Low machine tension
Stable waxing during rewinding
High twist count for 3GG–7GG chunky items
Minimum handling after knitting
Fiber Length and Staple Stability
Cashmere typically has a shorter staple length than wool.
Benefits:
Extreme softness
Smooth surface
Challenges:
Higher risk of pilling
Lower tensile strength
Greater yarn breakage on fine gauges
Factory adjustments:
Lower knitting speed
Higher yarn twist
Strict humidity control
Minimized mechanical friction in linking and washing
Thermal Performance
Cashmere traps significantly more air than wool due to its hollow fiber structure.
3–4× warmer than wool
Insulates even when damp
Perfect for premium winter knitwear
Fine gauges (12GG–16GG) can still produce garments that are warm but lightweight—ideal for luxury brands.
Cashmere Yarn Types for Knitwear Manufacturing
The quality of finished garments depends heavily on yarn grade and spinning technique. You must evaluate cashmere suppliers carefully.
Pure Cashmere (100%)
The gold standard for luxury knitwear.
Applications:
High-end sweaters
Women’s luxury basics
Men’s Italian-style fine pullovers
Premium scarves, shawls, beanies
Key characteristics:
Highest softness
Best drape
Lowest pilling with the correct twist
Most expensive
Cashmere Blends
Used to reduce cost while maintaining a luxury feel.
Common blends:
Wool/Cashmere (90/10, 80/20)
Silk/Cashmere（15/85)
Cotton/Cashmere(95/5)
Nylon/Cashmere (for strength)
Why brands use blends:
Improved durability
Better pilling resistance
Reduced price → more commercial (pure cashmere cost is 2 times to cashmere/wool blends)
More stretch (with nylon or spandex)
Recycled Cashmere
Increasingly popular due to sustainability demands.
Characteristics:
Slightly lower softness
Lower cost
Strong sustainability narrative
Suitable for mass retail and eco-focused collections
Long-Staple vs Short-Staple Cashmere
Long-staple = premium
Less pilling
Stronger yarn
Suitable for fine gauge (12GG–18GG)
Short-staple = cheaper
Higher pilling risk
Suitable for chunky styles (3GG–7GG)
Cashmere in OEM/ODM Knitting Production
Cashmere is more sensitive and less stable than Merino or cotton. Factories must follow strict control procedures to maintain quality.
Tension Control (Critical)
Cashmere fibers break easily under excessive tension.
Factory settings must adjust:
Yarn feeder speed
Take-down tension
Yarn path lubrication
Needle choice based on gauge
If tension is unstable, expect:
Broken yarn
Uneven stitch loops
Panel distortion
Gauge inconsistency
Suitable for Fine Gauge Machines (12GG–18GG)
Cashmere is ideal for:
12GG fine sweaters
14GG and 16GG premium basics
Lightweight thermals
Luxury women’s tops
Machine brands used:
Shima Seiki
STOLL
Cixing (increasingly common for commercial programs)
Pre-Shrinking (Mandatory)
Unprocessed cashmere shrinks easily.
Pre-shrinking process includes:
Light steaming
Flat drying
Controlled agitation
Temperature under 30°C
Expected shrinkage before treatment:
Length: 7–12%
Width: 5–10%
After proper finishing shrinkage is reduced to 2–4%.
Dyeing Challenges
Cashmere absorbs dye unevenly compared to wool.
Risks:
Shade variations
Light/dark spots
Batch mismatching
Factory solution:
Use top-dyed or fiber-dyed cashmere for large orders
Strict pH and temperature control
Pre-scouring to remove surface oils
Gauge Selection for Cashmere Knitwear
Gauge defines fabric texture, price, and brand positioning.
1.5GG–5GG (Luxury Chunky Knit)
Applications:
Oversized sweaters
Winter pullovers
Cable knits
Heavy scarves
Challenges:
High risk of pilling
Must increase twist count
7GG–10GG (Premium Mid-Gauge)
Most popular for winter retail.
Suitable for:
Crewnecks
Turtlenecks
Cardigans
Men’s commercial knits
Balance between drape, softness, and surface definition.
12GG–16GG (High-End Fine Gauge)
Luxurious soft-touch pieces including:
Women’s fine pullovers
Cashmere basics
Men’s office sweaters
Lightweight fashion knits
Factory considerations:
Strict yarn quality testing
Stable machine tension
Finer needles → higher cost
Common Production Issues & Solutions
Cashmere requires elite-level process control.
Pilling
Causes:
Short fibers
Rough mechanical action
Low yarn twist
Surface friction during linking or washing
Factory prevention:
Select long-staple yarn
Increase twist count slightly
Conduct pilling test (ISO 12945)
Use anti-pilling finishing if needed
Shrinkage
Cashmere shrinks easily if washed incorrectly.
Factory controls:
Gentle washing
Cold-water finishing
Wet-blocking and steam shaping
Avoid spinning during washing
Panel Distortion
Cashmere fabric can stretch unevenly during knitting.
Solutions:
Stabilize yarn path
Control humidity
Adjust take-down weights
Avoid aggressive linking pressure
Dye Batch Variation
Solution:
Use top-dyed yarn
Keep supplier lots consistent
Perform pre-production color tests
Applications for OEM/ODM Cashmere Knitwear
Cashmere is used across the luxury and commercial spectrum.
Luxury Fashion Brands
Products include:
-
100% cashmere sweaters
-
Italian-style fine-gauge pullovers/hoodies/pants
-
Cashmere dresses
-
Premium cardigans
-
Soft-touch ribbed tops
Reason: unmatched softness + premium look.
High-End Retail & Department Stores
-
Affordable luxury collections
-
Cashmere blend knitwear
-
Capsule collections
Focus: cost control + quality stability.
Sustainable / Eco-Friendly Brands
-
Recycled cashmere
-
Regenerated cashmere blends
-
Low-carbon dyeing solutions
Winter Accessories
Cashmere is ideal for:
-
Scarves
-
Gloves
-
Beanies
-
Shawls
-
Wraps
Requires careful pilling control.
OEM/ODM Production Workflow for Cashmere
A professional manufacturing process ensures consistent quality from development to bulk.
Yarn Sourcing & Testing
Factories typically work with premium Chinese spinners:
Consinee
Erdos
Xinao
UPW
Zhongyin
Testing includes:
Micron measurement
Fiber length testing
Twist evaluation
Colorfastness testing
Moisture regain test
Sampling Stage
Typical sampling process:
Lab dips (1–2 kg yarn)
Knit prototype panels
Shrinkage/pilling testing
First fit sample
Revised PPS (Pre-Production Sample)
Sampling lead time: 5–7 days due to fiber sensitivity.
Bulk Knitting
Controls required during mass production:
Constant humidity
Stable machine speed
Needle checks every batch
MES (Manufacturing Execution System) tracking
Washing & Finishing
Cashmere finishing techniques include:
Gentle washing
Softening finish
Surface brushing (optional)
Steam blocking
Flat drying
Quality Inspection
QC requirements include:
Shrinkage report
Pilling grade ≥ 3–3.5
Colorfastness ≥ 3
Measurement stability
Hand-feel consistency across batches
