Jacquard & Intarsia Knit Techniques: OEM/ODM Technical Guide for Advanced Knitwear Production

What Is Jacquard Knit?

Jacquard knitting uses two or more yarn colors within the same row, creating patterns by alternating yarn paths. This technique forms floats — strands of yarn running behind the fabric where the color is not currently knitted.

Key characteristics:

• Complex multi-color patterns

• Strong visual depth

• Durable and warm (due to floats)

• Stable structure

• Suitable for all-over patterns

Jacquards can be produced on flat knitting machines or circular knitting machines, but high-end fashion jacquards typically rely on computerized flatbeds (Shima Seiki / STOLL / Cixing).

How Jacquard Knitting Works in Production

Jacquard knitting requires the machine to carry multiple yarn feeds simultaneously. As the needles select specific colors, unused yarns float on the back side.

Factory programming controls:

• Color selection logic

• Floating yarn management

• Stitch density adjustments

• Tension adjustments for each yarn

• Repeat pattern calibration

• Edge stabilization

Improper programming causes tension issues, distorted patterns, or long floats that snag easily.

Types of Jacquard Knit Structure

Single-Jersey Jacquard

• Most common

• Lightweight to mid-weight

• Suitable for sweaters, fashion tops, accessories

Double-Jersey Jacquard

• Thicker and warmer

• No exposed floats (clean finish)

• Used for luxury brands and premium outerwear

Engineered Jacquard

• Custom artwork mapped to garment panels

• Requires advanced programming

• Used for logos, scenery motifs, statement pieces

Birdseye Jacquard

• Small repeating pattern on the back

• Reduces floats

• Better for fine-gauge jacquards

What Is Intarsia Knit?

Intarsia is a color-blocking technique that creates artwork with separate yarn sections, without floats on the back. Each color area requires an individual yarn feeder.

Key characteristics:

• Clean artwork appearance

• No floats → lighter fabric

• Perfect for large blocks of colors

• Difficult to program and produce

• Higher labor and machine time

Intarsia is the preferred method for large motifs, logos, characters, and artwork-heavy sweaters.

How Intarsia Works in Production

Intarsia knitting requires each color section to be knit with its own yarn carrier. Unlike jacquard, the yarn does not travel across the entire row.

Factory requirements:

• Multiple yarn carriers

• Frequent color changes

• Detailed stitch-by-stitch programming

• Manual knotting or linking at yarn transitions

• Lower knitting speed

This makes intarsia more expensive and time-consuming than jacquard.

Jacquard vs Intarsia: Key Differences

Both techniques serve different creative and functional purposes.

Yarn Requirements for Multi-Color Knitting

Wool / Merino Wool

• Excellent stitch clarity

• Warmth for jacquard sweaters

• Stable for intarsia blocks

Cotton / Combed Cotton

• Clean color transitions

• Ideal for SS/FW fashion jacquards

Acrylic / Soft Acrylic Blends

• Cost-effective for large quantities

• Great for youth fashion and commercial jacquards

Viscose/Nylon Blends

• Smooth surface

• High-definition artwork

• Ideal for women’s fine-gauge jacquard

Wool/Nylon Blends

• Increased strength

• Better for technical intarsia

Proper yarn twist is essential to avoid bleeding and distortion in multi-color sections.

Gauge Behavior of Jacquard & Intarsia

Chunky Gauge (3GG–5GG)

• Strong, bold jacquards

• Limited intarsia precision due to thick yarn

Mid Gauge (7GG–10GG)

• Best gauge range for both jacquard & intarsia

• Clear artwork

• Efficient knitting time

Fine Gauge (12GG–16GG)

• Premium jacquard for menswear

• Intarsia becomes extremely difficult

• Requires flawless tension control

Fine-gauge artwork is considered high-end and requires a highly experienced factory.

Production Challenges for Jacquard Knitwear

Heavy Weight Due to Floats

Extra yarn increases weight.
Factory adjusts GSM and stitch density.

Tension Variability

Different colors = different tensions.
Solution: adjust feeder by color group.

Pattern Misalignment Between Panels

Factory must match:

• Pattern repeat alignment

• Body and sleeve positions

• Linking accuracy

Pilling from Loose Floats

Controlled by yarn twist and finishing.

Production Challenges for Intarsia Knitwear

Slow Knitting Speed

More carriers = more stops.
Intarsia can be 30–50% slower than jacquard.

Yarn Tails & Holes Between Colors

Factory must:

• Use advanced linking

• Lock transitions manually

Artwork Distortion

Caused by incorrect programming.
Solution: precision mapping on stitch grid.

High Labor Cost in Linking

Intarsia generally requires more post-knitting work.

Best Applications Across Fashion Segments

Luxury Brands

• Fine-gauge jacquard sweaters

• Complex intarsia artwork

• Cashmere intarsia motifs

• High-definition logo sweaters

Contemporary & High-Street Fashion

• Acrylic/wool jacquards

• Color-block intarsia

• Patterned FW sweaters

Streetwear Brands

• Large graphic intarsia

• Oversized jacquard pullovers

• Music/character inspiration

Children’s Wear

• Cartoon intarsia

• Patterned jacquards

• Soft acrylic blends

Outdoor & Performance Brands

• Jacquard thermal structures

• Multi-layered technical knits

• Wool/nylon jacquards for insulation

OEM/ODM Workflow for Jacquard & Intarsia Production

Design Interpretation

Factory extracts:

• Stitch grid

• Color separation

• Pattern repeat

• Required gauge

• Panel mapping

Machine Programming

Depends heavily on machine type (STOLL / Shima Seiki / Cixing).
Programming includes:

• Needle selection order

• Color switching

• Carrier distribution

• Float management (jacquard)

• Artwork mapping (intarsia)

Sample Development

Factories produce:

• Color swatches

• Artwork swatch

• First sample

• Washed sample

• PPS (Pre-production sample)

Sampling time: 5–10 days, depending on complexity.

Bulk Production

• Slow speed for intarsia

• Balanced tension across yarn types

• Frequent yarn feeder calibration

• MES real-time monitoring

Finishing & QC

• Blocking to correct distortion

• Float trimming (jacquard)

• Seam inspection

• Colorfastness tests

• Shrinkage verification

• Artwork alignment check

Cost Differences: Jacquard vs Intarsia

Jacquard Cost Drivers

• Extra yarn usage

• More knitting time than jersey

• Pattern programming

• Linking complexity

Intarsia Cost Drivers

• Very slow knitting

• Many color carriers

• High linking labor

• More complex programming

Result:
Intarsia is typically 30–80% more expensive than jacquard depending on artwork complexity.