Cable Knit Structure Guide for Knitwear Manufacturers

What Is a Cable Knit Structure?

A cable knit is created by crossing groups of stitches over each other to form a twisted rope-like pattern.
Key characteristics include:

• Three-dimensional depth

• Strong texture

• Higher weight and warmth

• Increased elasticity

• Clear and decorative pattern visibility

Cable knits can be simple (single twist), complex (braided, honeycomb), or highly decorative (multi-panel Aran structures).

Cable knitting increases both yarn usage and knitting time, making it a premium structure in manufacturing.

How Cable Knits Are Created on Flat Knitting Machines

Modern cable knitting is achieved primarily on computerized flatbed machines (Shima Seiki / STOLL / Cixing).

Core Process Steps:

• Stitch groups are transferred between needle beds

• One set crosses over another

• Machine repeats the transfer and twist according to programmed pattern

• Loops move laterally, creating raised rope-like textures

Cable knits require significantly more machine operations than basic jersey or rib structures.

Factory Programming Considerations:

• Cam settings must be optimized

• Transfer precision must be ensured

• Pattern files must define crossing frequency

• Take-down tension must support lateral transfers

• Needle selection depends on gauge + yarn thickness

If any setting is incorrect, cables become flat, distorted, or uneven.

Gauge Behavior of Cable Knits (3GG–16GG)

Cable behavior varies dramatically depending on gauge.

Chunky Gauge (3GG–5GG)

• Deep, bold cables

• High volume and warmth

• Traditional fisherman aesthetics

• Requires strong yarn twist to avoid fuzzing

Mid Gauge (7GG–10GG)

• Balanced texture + wearability

• Common for FW collections

• Good for retail fashion sweaters

• Less expensive than chunky cables

Fine Gauge (12GG–16GG)

• Subtle cable effects

• Often used in luxury menswear

• Requires very stable yarn (wool/nylon blends, cotton/viscose blends)

• Machine tension must be highly precise

Fine-gauge cables are premium and more technically demanding.

Types of Cable Knit Patterns

Single-Twist Cable

• Basic left/right twist

• Used widely in commercial sweaters

• Offers clean and elegant texture

Double or Triple Cable

• Larger rope-like appearance

• Traditional fisherman style

• Heavier and warmer

Braided Cable

• Over-under interlocking pattern

• High-end knitwear signature

• Requires perfect transfer precision

Honeycomb Cable

• Complex hexagonal pattern

• Distinctive 3D texture

• Requires advanced machine programming

Aran Cable Panels

• Multi-cable, diamond, and rope combinations

• Historical Irish heritage design

• High yarn usage and longer production time

• Premium positioning

Each cable type affects weight, drape, stitch clarity, and production cost.

How Cable Knits Behave in Production

Higher Yarn Consumption

Cable crosses compress the fabric width, requiring more yarn per panel.
Factories usually calculate:

• +20–40% more yarn for mid-gauge

• +40–60% for chunky cable knits

Yarn wastage must be factored into costing.

Slower Knitting Speed

Cable transfer operations increase machine time.
Factory expectation:

• ~20–50% slower than jersey knitting

Panel Shrinkage & Tension Distortion

Because cables tighten the fabric, panels shrink horizontally and expand vertically.

Factory adjustments:

• Reduce take-down tension

• Calibrate transfer weights

• Pre-wash test with cable intensity

• Adjust pattern size to match final measurements

Best Yarns for Cable Knit Structures

Wool & Merino Wool

• Holds cable shape beautifully

• Offers warmth and loft

• Ideal for 3GG–10GG bulky cables

Wool/Acrylic & Wool/Nylon Blends

• Improve durability

• Prevent overstretch

• Enhance stitch clarity

Cotton & Cotton Blends

• Clean cable definition

• Heavier drape

• Ideal for SS/FW transitional pieces

Acrylic & Soft Acrylic

• Cost-effective

• Good for chunky cables

• Holds shape well

Alpaca & Mohair Blends

• Adds halo texture

• Works best in mid-gauge

• Luxury aesthetic

Viscose/Nylon Blends

• Suitable for fine-gauge subtle cables

• Smooth, elegant drape

Yarn twist and tensile strength are critical to avoid flattening or distortion.

Common Production Issues with Cable Knitwear

Uneven Cable Definition

Caused by:

• Tension imbalance

• Incorrect transfer settings

• Yarn inconsistency

Factory solutions:

• Reduce main tension

• Recalibrate feeders

• Adjust take-down speed

Panel Distortion After Washing

Cables change shape during blocking.
Factory must:

• Over-compensate width in knitting measurement

• Use steam blocking for stability

• Test shrinkage before PPS

Pilling

Common with soft acrylic or low-twist wool.
Factory solutions:

• Increase twist

• Add nylon reinforcement

• Conduct pilling tests

Misaligned Cable Panels

Occurs in garments with multiple cable columns.
Factory must align:

• Needle counts

• Panel symmetry

• Center cable placement

Applications Across Fashion & Performance Segments

Luxury & Designer Brands

• Braided cables

• Honeycomb panels

• Fine-gauge cables for menswear

• Cashmere/wool cable sweaters

High-Street & Commercial Retailers

• Acrylic/wool cable sweaters

• 3GG–7GG winter knits

• Seasonal FW cable pullovers

Outdoor & Heritage Brands

• Aran fisherman cables

• Thick wool cable pullovers

• Rugged lambswool/cable fleece hybrids

Women’s Fashion Brands

• Cable cardigans

• Cropped cable sweaters

• Cable dresses

• Cable-rib hybrid styles

OEM/ODM Workflow for Cable Knit Programs

Design Interpretation

Factories extract:

• Cable width

• Cable direction

• Repeat pattern

• Panel symmetry

• Required gauge

Programming (Shima / STOLL / Cixing)

• Build transfer logic

• Digitize cable repetition

• Add supporting ribs to stabilize panels

• Insert tuck or purl for cable depth

Sampling Stage

Factory produces:

• Cable swatch

• First sample

• Blocked/washed sample

• Fit sample

• PPS sample

Sampling time: 5–7 days due to complexity.

Bulk Production

Requires:

• Tight QC during knitting

• Needle inspection

• Yarn lot consistency

• MES tracking for cable-heavy runs

Finishing & QC

• Gentle washing

• Steam shaping

• Pilling testing

• Measuring across cable tension changes

• Visual cable alignment check