Fully-Fashioned vs Cut & Sew Knitwear: OEM/ODM Technical Guide for Brands

What Is Fully-Fashioned Knitwear?

Definition

Fully-fashioned knitwear is produced by shaping garment panels directly on flat knitting machines. Panels are created to match the final silhouette — with no cutting required.

Key Characteristics

• Panels shaped on-machine (neckline, armhole, shoulder)

• Minimal cut edges, minimal waste

• Assembled using loop-to-loop linking

• Premium appearance with smoother transitions

• High durability

Factory Behavior

• Requires advanced programming (Shima Seiki / STOLL / Cixing)

• Precision needle selection controls shaping

• Linking accuracy determines final appearance

When Fully-Fashioned Works Best

• Complex cable or textured sweaters

• Luxury fine-gauge knitwear (12–18GG)

• Structured silhouettes with clean armholes

• Premium menswear and womenswear

• Cashmere, merino, silk blends

What Is Cut & Sew Knitwear?

Definition

Cut & sew knitwear is produced by knitting fabric yardage first, then cutting shapes using garment patterns, and sewing panels using overlock or cover stitches.

Key Characteristics

• Fabric knitted in sheets

• Panels cut using patterns

• Easy to modify fit and shape

• Fast sampling cycle

• High scalability

Factory Behavior

• Knit yardage → relax → cut → sew → finish

• Requires precision cutting tools

• Suitable for fabrics that cannot be fully-fashioned

When Cut & Sew Works Best

• Knit tops, dresses, skirts

• Fine jersey fabrics (cotton/viscose/modal)

• Athleisure and fashion basics

• Hybrid garments (woven + knit)

• High-volume fast fashion

Fully-Fashioned: Technical Advantages & Limitations

Advantages

Premium Aesthetic

• Smooth armhole transitions

• Clean neckline shaping

• No overlock seam bulk

Superior Durability

• Loop-to-loop linking creates stronger joints

Lower Waste

• Panels shaped directly → sustainable

Better Shape Retention

• Ideal for rib structures, cables, and complex stitch designs

Limitations

Slower Machine Time

• Shaping increases production time

Higher Cost

• Linking labor is expensive

• More machine programming required

Not Suitable for All Fabrics

• Unstable structures (loose mesh) may distort

• Ultra-stretch fabrics perform poorly

Cut & Sew: Technical Advantages & Limitations

Advantages

Fast Production

• Ideal for large retail programs and rapid turnover

Flexible Patterning

• Easy to adjust fit during sampling or bulk

• Works with lightweight, drapey fabrics

Cost-Effective

• Lower machine time

• Lower labor cost

Excellent for Hybrid Designs

• Mixed woven/knit garments

• Dresses requiring non-linear cutting

Limitations

Higher Fabric Waste

• Cutting scraps usually 10–20%

Less Durable Seams

• Overlock seams weaker than linking

Panel Curling Risk

• Especially with jersey fabrics

Lower Premium Feel

• Visible seam lines

• Less shape precision

Yarn & Gauge Compatibility Comparison

Fully-Fashioned Compatible Yarns

Best Choices

• Merino / extra-fine merino

• Cashmere & luxury blends

• Wool/nylon

• High-twist viscose/nylon

• Silk blends

• Tencel/modal fine-gauges

Why

• Stable tension → clean shaping

• Ideal for advanced stitch structures

Cut & Sew Compatible Yarns

Best Choices

• Cotton, organic cotton

• Polyester/cotton blends

• Viscose/modal/Tencel jersey

• Athleisure yarns

• Rib fabrics

• Mesh knits

Why

• Fabric-first knitting allows versatile applications

• Works well for breathable, drapey, lightweight styles

Machine Requirements & Workflow Differences

Fully-Fashioned Workflow (Factory)

H3: Step-by-Step

1. Yarn feeding

2. Shaping via needle selection

3. Panel knitting

4. Panel linking (loop-to-loop)

5. Washing & blocking

6. Final QC (shape, linking tension, stitches)

H4: Machinery

• Shima Seiki WHOLEGARMENT

• STOLL CMS

• Cixing CX series

• Linking machines (chain-stitch linking)

Cut & Sew Workflow (Factory)

H3: Step-by-Step

1. Knit fabric yardage

2. Relax fabric for 24 hours

3. Lay & cut using templates

4. Sew panels (overlock, cover stitch)

5. Washing & finishing

6. QC (seams, measurement, recovery)

H4: Machinery

• Flat knitting machines for yardage

• Fabric spreaders

• Cutting tables or laser cutting

• Overlock / coverstitch machines

Cost Breakdown: Fully-Fashioned vs Cut & Sew

Fully-Fashioned Cost Drivers

• High machine programming complexity

• Linking labor

• More machine hours per garment

• Slower production speed

• More skilled workers

Typical cost:
30–50% higher than cut & sew depending on stitch depth.

Cut & Sew Cost Drivers

• Fast knitting of yardage

• High scalability

• Less reliance on linking

• Lower-skilled sewing operators

Typical cost:
10–30% lower than fully-fashioned.

Which Method Should Brands Choose?

Choose Fully-Fashioned If You Want:

• Luxury appearance

• High durability

• Perfect rib edges

• Complex cables/jacquards

• Shaped silhouettes

• Premium sweaters

Choose Cut & Sew If You Want:

• Fashion tops & dresses

• Lightweight knit fabrics

• Athleisure or yoga tops

• High-volume production

• Quick sampling

• Lower production cost

Sustainability Comparison

Fully-Fashioned

• Minimal material waste

• Longer-lasting garments

• Better use of premium yarns

Cut & Sew

• Higher scrap percentage

• More trimming waste

• Works well with recycled fabrics in yardage

Fully-fashioned is inherently more sustainable due to lower waste.