Sweater Panel Construction & Pattern Engineering: Technical Guide for OEM/ODM Knitwear Manufacturing

Understanding Sweater Panel Construction

A fully constructed sweater typically consists of:

• Front panel

• Back panel

• Sleeves (set-in / raglan / drop shoulder)

• Neckline trims

• Hem and cuff trims

• Optional plackets or pockets

• Optional hood or collar

Each panel is knitted to a specific pattern using automated shaping methods or cut-and-sew techniques depending on production requirements.

Why Panel Engineering Matters

Proper engineering ensures:

• Accurate garment fit

• Balanced proportions between body and sleeves

• Consistent shrinkage behavior

• Smooth linking at seams

• Reduced measurement deviation

• Better comfort and flexibility during wear

Poor engineering leads to twisting, uneven hems, puckered armholes, or inaccurate measurement after washing — common reasons for bulk rejection.

Fully-Fashioned Shaping vs Cut & Sew Panel Construction

Two main approaches exist:

Fully-Fashioned Shaping

Panels are knitted directly into shape using narrowing and widening.

Advantages:

• Clean edges

• Better drape

• Higher perceived quality

• Lower fabric waste

• Improved seam accuracy

Disadvantages:

• Slightly slower knitting

• Requires skilled programming

• Higher cost vs cut & sew

Cut & Sew Panels

Panels are knitted as rectangles and cut into shape.

Advantages:

• Faster knitting speed

• Lower cost

• Good for entry-level items

Disadvantages:

• Higher yarn waste

• Less precision at seams

• Lower premium feel

• Edges may roll unless stabilized

Premium and mid-range brands usually choose fully-fashioned, while promotional or price-sensitive items often use cut & sew.

Panel Shaping Techniques

Fully-fashioned shaping relies on narrowing and widening.

Narrowing

Removing needles to reduce width:

• Applied at armholes

• Used for shoulder slope

• Helps shape necklines

• Used for sleeve caps

Widening

Adding needles to increase width:

• Creating sleeve cuffs into sleeves

• Shaping curved panels

• Building volume in special silhouettes

Both methods require exact programming to avoid stepping marks or tension imbalance.

Shoulder Construction

One of the most critical areas of panel design.

Common Shoulder Types

• Set-in shoulder

• Drop shoulder

• Raglan shoulder

• Forward-shoulder construction

• Extended shoulder (fashion fit)

Each creates a distinct fit and silhouette.

Technical Considerations

• Shoulder slope must match human anatomy (typically 15–22 degrees)

• Back shoulder needs slightly more width than front

• Linking lines must meet without puckering

Incorrect shoulder engineering results in fit imbalance and poor visual alignment.

Sleeve Construction & Engineering

Sleeves play a major role in mobility and comfort.

Sleeve Types

• Set-in

• Raglan

• Drop shoulder

• Dolman

• Seamless tubular sleeves (WHOLEGARMENT®)

Factors in Sleeve Engineering

• Bicep width

• Cuff opening

• Sleeve length after wash

• Armhole curve compatibility

• Cap height (for set-in sleeves)

Sleeve Cap Height

• Too high → restricted arm movement

• Too low → sloppy armhole

• Needs calibrated to gauge & yarn type

Neckline Construction & Pattern Logic

Necklines must be engineered for visual balance, comfort, linking feasibility, and shrinkage control.

Neckline Types

• Crewneck

• V-neck

• Mock neck

• Turtleneck

• Polo collar

• Boat neck

• Funnel neck

Technical Considerations

• Rib height in proportion to garment gauge

• Stability of neckline shape

• Neck drop depth

• Linking margin consistency

• Stretch recovery using plating yarn

• Back neckline must be slightly higher than front for comfort

V-Neck Engineering

• Exact “V” angle required for symmetry

• Mirrored narrowing for left and right sides

• Precision in stitch count for clean point finish

Hem, Cuff & Trim Engineering

Trims are responsible for garment stability and aesthetic finish.

Common Trim Types

• 1×1 rib

• 2×2 rib

• Milano rib

• Tubular rib

• Plated rib

• Folded rib

Key Engineering Concepts

• Rib tension must be tighter than body

• Hem must control curling on jersey bodies

• Rib height proportional to garment gauge

• Double-layer ribs offer premium feel

Incorrect rib engineering causes:

• Flared hems

• Over-tight cuffs

• Uneven stretching

Stitch Structures & Panel Behavior

Different stitches behave differently in tension and shrinkage.

Jersey

• Tends to curl

• Shrinks more vertically

Rib

• Highly elastic

• Compresses horizontally

Links-links

• Dense

• Excellent stability

Waffle

• Thick and structured

• Heavy shrinkage in washing

Jacquard

• Multi-color tension imbalance

• Needs precise programming

Panels must be engineered with predicted shrinkage properties in mind.

Grading: Size Set Development for S–XXXL

A core responsibility of the factory’s technical team.

Grading Parameters

• Chest width increments (typically 2–4 cm)

• Body length increments (1–2 cm)

• Sleeve length increments (1–1.5 cm)

• Shoulder width increments (1–1.2 cm)

• Neck opening adjustments

• Rib trim width consistency

Grading Differences by Fit

Regular Fit

• Balanced proportions

• Moderate shoulder

• Standard sleeve taper

Oversized Fit

• Wide chest

• Dropped shoulder

• Extended sleeve length

Slim Fit

• Narrower chest

• More armhole shaping

• Shorter rib trims

Factories must maintain a grading table for each gauge and yarn combination.

Shrinkage Compensation in Panel Patterns

Because sweaters shrink after washing, patterns must be engineered with pre-shrink margins.

Typical Shrinkage Behaviors

• Wool: 3–7%

• Cotton: 2–5%

• Viscose: 10–15%

• Acrylic: 1–3%

Factories adjust:

• Stitch density

• Panel length

• Shoulder slope

• Sleeve width

• Neckline circumference

Failure to compensate correctly causes measurement out-of-tolerance in bulk production.

Panel Symmetry & Measurement Precision

Both left and right panels must mirror each other perfectly.

QC Checks for Symmetry

• Match stitch counts

• Verify narrowing rows

• Consistent panel width

• Shoulder angle alignment

• Sleeve cap curve match

Even a 0.5–1 cm variation affects linking quality and final shape.

Panel Curling & Stabilization Techniques

Curling is particularly common with jersey structures.

Solutions

• Adjust stitch length

• Add plating yarn

• Use Milano rib at hem

• Steam-block before linking

• Use tighter take-down tension

Proper stabilization ensures clean linking and consistent hem behavior.

Pattern Engineering Software

Factories use CAD systems for knitting program creation and technical patterns.

Leading Tools

• Shima Seiki SDS-ONE APEX

• STOLL M1 Plus

• Cixing KnitCAD

Capabilities include:

• Fit simulation

• Panel dimension mapping

• Yarn behavior prediction

• Stitch transfer programming

• Automated narrowing/widening plans

These tools help minimize manual adjustments and reduce sampling time.

Relationship Between Gauge & Panel Construction

Gauge impacts:

• Panel width

• Shaping precision

• Row height

• How narrowing is executed

• The visibility of shaping steps

Fine Gauge (14–18GG)

• Smooth shaping

• Subtle step transitions

• Ideal for corporate/luxury knitwear

Mid Gauge (7–10GG)

• Balanced shaping speed vs structure

• Most commonly used in OEM production

Heavy Gauge (3–5GG)

• Large step marks

• Needs softened shaping techniques

• Best for cables and textured styles

Matching Panel Construction with Yarn Type

Wool / Merino

• Excellent for sculpted shaping

• Good elasticity

Cotton

• Less stretch

• Needs larger armhole curves

Viscose / Modal / Tencel

• Heavy after washing

• Requires reinforced shoulder shaping

Acrylic

• Very stable

• Good for uniform grading

Each yarn demands specialized tension and shaping adjustments.

Seam Allowances & Linking Margins

Panels must be engineered with linking margins relative to gauge.

Typical Margins

• 1–2 stitches for fine gauge

• 2–3 stitches for mid gauge

• 3–4 stitches for heavy gauge

If margins are too small → difficult to link
If too wide → bulky and uneven seams

Panel Engineering for Different Sweater Types

Crewneck

• Balanced front/back shaping

• Medium neckline depth

V-Neck

• Sharp symmetrical V-point

• Precision mirrored shaping

Cardigan

• Button placket integration

• Reinforced front edge

Turtleneck

• Increased neck stability

• Soft fold behavior engineering

Oversized Styles

• Extended drop shoulder

• Wider body width

• Modified sleeve cap or no cap

Common Panel Engineering Mistakes

Shoulder Mismatch

Cause: incorrect slope difference
Fix: adjust grading rules

Neckline Rolling

Cause: weak trim engineering
Fix: plated rib or Milano rib

Panel Twisting

Cause: uneven stitch density
Fix: recalibrate tension and stabilizer yarn

Sleeve Too Tight or Loose

Cause: wrong cap height
Fix: correct narrowing pattern

Hem Flaring

Cause: loose rib tension
Fix: reduce rib stitch length