Lace, Mesh, and Pointelle Openwork Knits: OEM/ODM Technical Guide for Fashion & Performance Knitwear

What Is Openwork Knitwear?

Openwork knitwear refers to structures that intentionally incorporate holes and eyelets into the fabric using combinations of:

• Transfer stitches

• Tuck stitches

• Lace movements

• Needle selection patterns

• Dropped stitches

• Mesh-specific needle beds

Openwork adds value through:

• Visual texture

• Lightweight feel

• Enhanced breathability

• Feminine or technical aesthetics

• High stretch and flexibility

Openwork is widely used across fashion, luxury, performance, and resortwear markets.

Lace Knit Structures

Lace knit uses transfer stitches to move loops between needles, creating engineered eyelets and decorative lace patterns. These movements create highly detailed motifs that resemble traditional woven lace.

Key characteristics:

• Most delicate openwork structure

• Lightweight and airy

• Highly decorative

• Complex programming

• Requires stable yarn to prevent distortion

Factory Behavior

Lace requires:

• Frequent stitch transfers

• Balanced take-down tension

• Precision pattern alignment

• Slower knitting speed

Even minor tension instability can distort the lace pattern or enlarge eyelets.

Best Gauges for Lace

• 12GG–16GG: fine lace for luxury brands

• 7GG–10GG: mid-gauge lace for fashion pieces

Best Applications

• Women’s luxury sweaters

• Dress panels

• Resortwear

• Spring/Summer cardigans

• Feminine fashion tops

• Lace-knit dresses and skirts

Mesh Knit Structures

Mesh knit structures create a regular, lightweight grid pattern similar to athletic mesh or breathable netting. Mesh can be engineered for fashion, sportswear, or industrial applications.

Key characteristics:

• Strong openness and airflow

• High breathability

• Great stretch

• Modern and sporty aesthetic

• Structure varies from loose to tight grids

Factory Behavior

Mesh knits rely heavily on tuck stitches or alternating empty-needle patterns.
Factories must manage:

• Horizontal stretch

• Vertical growth

• Final garment stability

Mesh tends to grow after washing if tension is not controlled.

Best Gauges for Mesh

• 3GG–5GG: large open mesh

• 7GG–12GG: balanced, refined mesh

• 14GG–16GG: micro-mesh for luxury or performance

Best Applications

• Athleisure tops

• Sportswear

• Fashion mesh sweaters

• Breathable spring/summer knits

• Layering tops

• Mesh panel inserts

Pointelle Knit Structures

Pointelle is a decorative openwork pattern formed using eyelets arranged in geometric, floral, or lace-like motifs. It offers a delicate, feminine appearance that’s widely used in women’s fashion.

Key characteristics:

• Small geometric holes

• Repeating patterns

• Decorative yet stable

• Soft, romantic aesthetic

Factory Behavior

Pointelle uses programmed eyelet patterns with controlled needle lifts.
Factories must control:

• Precision of needle selection

• Hole shape uniformity

• Shrinkage and stretch

• Edge curling

Pointelle is more stable than lace, but still requires careful handling.

Best Gauges for Pointelle

• 7GG–14GG depending on pattern scale

Best Applications

• Women’s fashion sweaters

• Cardigans

• T-shirts

• Dresses and skirts

• Kidswear (cute, breathable designs)

Yarn Requirements for Openwork Knits

Cotton & Combed Cotton

• Ideal for pointelle and mesh

• Clean stitch definition

• Breathable for SS collections

Viscose/Modal/Tencel Blends

• Beautiful drape

• Perfect for feminine pointelle and lace

• Requires tension control

Wool Blends

• Good for FW lace sweaters

• Warm and soft

• More stable than pure wool in openwork

Acrylic & Acrylic/Wool

• Budget-friendly

• Good stitch clarity

• Suitable for commercial mesh/poinetelle

Nylon/Polyester Blends (Performance Mesh)

• High durability

• Excellent recovery

• Perfect for technical mesh

Correct yarn twist is crucial to preventing enlargement of holes in openwork structures.

Gauge Behavior in Openwork Structures

Chunky Gauge (3GG–5GG)

• Large mesh patterns

• Net-like structures

• High airflow

• Rare for lace due to lack of detail

Mid Gauge (7GG–10GG)

• Ideal for pointelle

• Balanced mesh

• Lightweight lace

Fine Gauge (12GG–16GG)

• Premium lace

• Micro-mesh

• Luxury pointelle

Fine-gauge openwork is highly technical and requires top-level machinery and factory expertise.

Production Challenges & Factory Solutions

Unstable Hole Size

Causes:

• Yarn tension inconsistency

• Soft yarn

• Needle wear

Solutions:

• Maintain balanced humidity

• Use higher twist yarn

• Replace worn needles

Panel Growth and Deformation

Openwork structures stretch easily.
Solutions:

• Stabilize with ribs along edges

• Reduce take-down tension

• Add links-links edges

Shrinkage Variation

Fine yarns + open structures = unpredictable shrinkage.
Solutions:

• Pre-wash testing

• Steam blocking

• Adjust stitch density

Dropped Stitches

Especially common in lace.
Solutions:

• Lower machine speed

• Calibrate transfer settings

• Use high-quality yarn

Curling Edges

Mesh and lace curl without stabilization.
Solutions:

• Add rib edges

• Use plated structures

• Block carefully during finishing

Openwork knits require experienced operators and high-level finishing.

Applications Across Fashion & Performance Segments

Luxury & Contemporary Brands

• Fine-gauge lace sweaters

• Pointelle dresses

• Mesh-detail cardigans

• Tencel/modal openwork tops

• Resort knitwear

High-Street Fashion

• Cotton pointelle tops

• Mesh sweaters

• Lace-inspired FW pieces

• Trend-driven open-knit sets

Sportswear & Performance Brands

• Technical mesh panels

• Breathable inserts

• Layering mesh sweaters

• Nylon/performance blends

Resortwear & Spring/Summer Collections

• Lightweight lace tops

• Mesh dresses

• Airy pointelle cardigans

Kidswear

• Cute pointelle structures

• Breathable cotton lace

OEM/ODM Workflow for Openwork Knitwear

Design Interpretation

Factory analyzes:

• Openwork motif

• Proportion of holes

• Gauge requirement

• Yarn stability

• Panel shaping

Machine Programming

Programming includes:

• Transfer stitch logic

• Tuck patterns

• Needle selection

• Grid mapping

Sampling Process

• Openwork swatch

• First sample

• Shrinkage test

• Strength test (especially mesh)

• PPS sample

Sampling time: 3–7 days depending on pattern complexity.

Bulk Production

• Slower knitting speed

• Tension monitoring

• Yarn lot consistency

• Careful panel handling

Finishing & QC

• Gentle washing

• Steam blocking

• Hole size consistency check

• Shrinkage verification

• Needle-drop inspection

Factories must maintain perfect quality for openwork because defects are highly visible.