Knitting Machine Types & Gauge Selection: Complete Technical Guide for Sweater Manufacturing

Overview of Flat Knitting Machines Used in Sweater Production

Flat knitting machines are the primary technology used to produce sweater panels and seamless garments. They vary in gauge, carriage speed, feeder capability, sinker system, and control software.

Main Machine Categories in the Industry

• Computerized flat knitting machines

• Mechanical flat knitting machines

• WHOLEGARMENT® / seamless machines

• Double-bed advanced systems for complex structures

Leading Machine Brands

• Shima Seiki (Japan) – industry benchmark

• STOLL (Germany) – precision & pattern complexity

• Cixing (China) – rapid growth, strong mid/high-end capability

Each system has unique strengths for gauge accuracy, shaping ability, jacquard programming, and specialized structures such as cables, lace, plated ribs, and intarsia.

Computerized Flat Knitting Machines

The backbone of modern sweater OEM production.

Key Features

• High-speed, multi-feeder capability

• Advanced needle selection

• Automated shaping (narrowing, widening)

• Multi-color jacquard support

• Better tension management

• More consistent panel quality

Advantages for Factories

• Increased output efficiency

• Lower labor cost

• Better handling of fine-gauge production (12GG–18GG)

• Supports advanced techniques such as tuck, miss, transfer, and lace

Common Machine Models

• Shima Seiki SES / MACH / N.SVR series

• STOLL CMS series

• Cixing CXT / CX series

Factories select models based on gauge requirements, fabric structure, and brand technical specs.

Mechanical Flat Knitting Machines

Mechanical machines still exist in low-cost markets or for special effects.

When They Are Used

• Textured, artisanal stitches

• Extremely heavy gauge 1.5GG–3GG

• Cost-sensitive orders

• Local production workshops

Limitations

• Slow

• Inconsistent tension

• Limited shaping capability

• Not suitable for large-scale OEM programs

Modern factories rarely use them except for niche designs.

WHOLEGARMENT® and Seamless Machines

The most advanced knitting technology available today.

Why They Matter

• Zero-seam construction

• Fully shaped tubular garments

• Ideal for activewear, luxury pieces, and second-skin knitwear

Strengths

• Reduced labor (no linking)

• No seam irritation

• Faster assembly workflow

• Zero-waste standard

Limitations

• Higher programming complexity

• Slower knitting speed for fine structures

• Higher machine investment

Seamless machines are typically used for premium sweaters, loungewear, performance layers, and shapewear.

Gauge Explained: The Most Important Parameter in Sweater Manufacturing

Gauge refers to the number of needles per inch on the machine.
It determines:

• Fabric thickness

• Stitch density

• Yarn count compatibility

• Drape & texture

• Breathability

• Thermal insulation

Gauge Groups

• Chunky: 1.5GG–5GG

• Mid-gauge: 7GG–10GG

• Fine-gauge: 12GG–18GG

Chunky Gauges (1.5GG–5GG)

Used for heavy-weight winter sweaters and bold textures.

Suitable Yarns

• Thick wool blends

• Mohair

• Acrylic high-bulk yarn

• Roving yarn

• Wool/acrylic blends

Product Types

• Fisherman cable sweaters

• Heavy rib sweaters

• Chunky cardigans

• Oversized winter pullovers

Production Notes

• Slow knitting speed

• Requires stronger needles

• Higher yarn consumption

• Excellent texture visibility

Mid-Gauge (7GG–10GG)

The most versatile and commercially used gauge range.

Suitable Yarns

• Wool blends

• Cotton blends

• Viscose blends

• Polyester blends

Product Types

• Commercial fall/winter pullovers

• Cardigans

• Workwear sweaters

• School uniform sweaters

• Casual menswear

• Fine jacquards and intarsias

Production Notes

• Balanced density

• High output speed

• Suitable for both fashion & uniform programs

Fine-Gauge (12GG–18GG)

Used for luxury, office, and lightweight sweaters.

Suitable Yarns

• Extra fine merino

• Cashmere blends

• Viscose/nylon

• Tencel/modal

• High-twist recycled yarns

Product Types

• Fine-gauge men’s office sweaters

• Women’s lightweight pullovers

• Luxury brand essentials

• Uniform knitwear for premium retailers

Production Notes

• Requires excellent yarn quality

• High sensitivity to tension

• Slower knitting speed

• Best stitch definition

How Machine Type Affects Gauge Quality

Shima Seiki

• Best stability in fine gauge (14–18GG)

• Strong for WHOLEGARMENT®

• Precise shaping and tension consistency

STOLL

• Industry leader in structural complexity

• Best for patterned knitwear (lace, intarsia, technical jacquard)

• Powerful CMS pattern system

Cixing

• Excellent efficiency-to-cost ratio

• Very strong in 7GG–12GG

• Growing adoption of high-gauge models

Choosing the Right Gauge for Yarn Type

Wool / Merino

• Works with 5GG–16GG depending on count

• Thick wool: 3GG–7GG

• Fine merino: 12GG–16GG

Cotton

• 7GG–12GG most stable

• Avoid ultra-fine gauge due to weight

Viscose / Modal / Tencel

• Requires 12GG+ for best drape

• Needs stable tension

Acrylic

• Most flexible

• 5GG–12GG

Cashmere

• Best in 12GG–16GG

• Higher gauges produce premium finish

Gauge Selection for Different Sweater Categories

Winter Heavy Sweaters

• 3GG–5GG

• Roving yarn, cables, waffle structures

Commercial FW Sweaters

• 7GG–9GG

• Best cost-performance ratio

Office / Corporate Uniforms

• 12GG–14GG

• Fine, smooth, professional appearance

Luxury Fine Knitwear

• 14GG–18GG

• High-end hand-feel and drape

Seamless Knitwear

• 10GG–18GG depending on structure

• WHOLEGARMENT® best above 12GG

Machine Setup & Technical Calibration

Key Technical Parameters

• Needle condition

• Sinker timing

• Yarn feeder tension

• Take-down rollers

• Cam system alignment

Why Calibration Matters

Inconsistent calibration causes:

• Panel width variation

• Shrinkage inconsistency

• Stitch distortion

• Dropped stitches

• Jacquard misalignment

Stitch Structures Supported by Each Machine Type

Computerized Machines

• Jacquard

• Intarsia

• Transfer lace

• Plated ribs

• Tuck/float combinations

• Milano rib

• Waffle/honeycomb

• Links-links

Seamless Machines

• Tubular ribs

• Compression areas

• 3D sculpted shapes

• Integrated hoods

• One-piece dresses

Cost Impact of Machine Type & Gauge

Machine Type Cost Influences

• WHOLEGARMENT®: highest

• Computerized flat knitting: moderate

• Mechanical machines: lowest

Gauge Cost Influences

• Fine-gauge (14–18GG): highest needle density → slower output

• Mid-gauge (7–10GG): most efficient

• Chunky gauge (3–5GG): slower due to thick yarn and heavy operations

Final Cost Drivers

• Yarn consumption

• Machine hours

• Pattern complexity

• Linking vs seamless

• Labor availability

Common Machine & Gauge Problems (and Solutions)

Panel Curling

Cause: loose stitch, viscose yarn
Fix: tighter density, plated support yarn

Jacquard Misalignment

Cause: inconsistent tension between colors
Fix: per-color feeder calibration

Shrinkage Variance

Cause: yarn lot inconsistency
Fix: pre-wash panels, adjust stitch length

Broken Needles

Cause: thick yarn on fine gauge
Fix: match yarn count to gauge