Custom Fit, Sizing & Pattern Customization for Knitwear Brands

Why Fit Matters in Custom Knitwear

Perfect fit directly influences:

• customer comfort

• silhouette aesthetic

• return rates

• brand identity

• size consistency

• retail performance

Compared to woven garments, knitwear fits differently because:

• stitch density affects elasticity

• rib recoverability shapes silhouette

• yarn weight influences drape

• washing and finishing change final dimensions

Therefore, custom fit is both an art and a technical science.

Types of Fits Offered by OEM/ODM Knitwear Factories

Brands typically choose from the following categories.

Regular Fit

The most universal silhouette.

Characteristics:

• comfortable ease

• balanced shoulder width

• natural sleeve volume

• ideal for office wear, unisex styles, uniforms

Slim Fit

A more tailored look.

Characteristics:

• narrower chest and waist

• reduced sleeve width

• closer body contour

• often used for men’s merino sweaters

Oversized Fit

A leading trend in contemporary womenswear and streetwear.

Characteristics:

• extended shoulder drop

• wide body

• generous sleeve volume

• ideal for chunky gauge and streetwear brands

Relaxed Fit

Between regular and oversized.

Boxy Fit

Shorter body, wide chest, straight shape.

Cropped Fit

Common in women’s fashion.

Kids Fit

Customized for comfort and safety.

Body Measurements Used in Knitwear Pattern Development

Fit begins with accurate measurement charts.

Key measurements include:

• chest width

• body length

• shoulder width

• sleeve length

• cuff opening

• neckline depth and width

• rib height

• hem width

• armhole depth

• across back

Factories create detailed spec sheets for each size.

Grading Rules for Knitwear

Grading determines how measurements change between sizes.

Standard Grading for Adults

Most brands use:

• +4–6 cm per size for chest

• +1–2 cm for sleeve length

• +1–2 cm for body length

Women’s vs Men’s Grading

Women’s grading often changes:

• bust slope

• waist shaping

• sleeve taper

• neckline form

Men’s grading is more linear.

Kids Grading

Grading for kids uses age groups:

• 2–3Y

• 4–5Y

• 6–7Y

• 8–9Y

• 10–12Y

Kids grading must consider:

• mobility

• safety

• shrinkage allowance

Pattern Engineering in Knitwear

Pattern engineering determines how panels are shaped during knitting.

Body Panel Construction

Factory engineers calculate:

• stitch counts

• rows

• panel shaping

• rib tension

• neckline curve

• armhole slope

Sleeve Engineering

Sleeve fit determines mobility and comfort.

Common sleeve shapes:

• fully fashioned set-in sleeve

• raglan sleeve

• drop shoulder sleeve

• saddle shoulder

• kimono sleeve

Neckline Engineering

Necklines drastically affect fit.

Types include:

• crew neck

• V-neck

• deep V-neck

• turtleneck

• mock neck

• polo collar

• bateau neck

Each neckline requires a specific:

• trim height

• rib tension

• linking method

Hem & Cuff Engineering

Rib tension controls:

• garment recovery

• silhouette stability

• anti-flare performance

Factories adjust:

• 1×1 rib

• 2×2 rib

• Milano rib

• links-links rib

Stitch Structure & Fit Interaction

Stitch types influence stretch, drape, and measurements.

Jersey Stitch

• smooth

• moderate stretch

• standard for 12GG–16GG

Rib Stitch

• high elasticity

• suitable for fitted silhouettes

Waffle / Thermal

• more structured

• adds volume

Cable

• reduces width

• heavy

• ideal for oversized fits

Viscose Blends

• fluid drape

• can grow during wear if not stabilized

Proper fit requires the factory to pair stitch and yarn correctly.

Shrinkage Allowances in Fit Development

Each yarn type behaves differently during washing.

Common Shrinkage Ranges

• cotton: 3–6%

• wool: 3–5% (with anti-shrink treatment)

• viscose: 8–12% (requires careful control)

• acrylic: 1–2%

• tencel: 3–5%

Factories build shrinkage allowance into:

• body length

• sleeve length

• rib trims

This ensures the final garment matches the intended measurements after finishing.

Differences in Fit by Gender

Women’s Knitwear

Focuses on:

• bust shaping

• waist curve

• sleeve taper

• neckline variety

• fashion silhouettes

Common product types:

• women’s cropped sweater

• women’s pointelle sweater

• women’s cable knit sweater

• women’s knitted dress

• ribbed knit tops

Men’s Knitwear

Emphasizes:

• shoulder width

• straight body lines

• stability

• rib recovery

Common product types:

• men’s merino wool sweaters

• men’s turtlenecks

• men’s V-neck sweaters

• men’s cable knit pullovers

Unisex Fit

Balanced structure suitable for:

• streetwear

• influencer merch

• oversized knits

Kids Fit

Extra considerations:

• soft fibers (cotton, bamboo, acrylic)

• comfortable necklines

• safe trims

• reinforced seams

Style-Specific Fit Customization for Brands

Factories offer custom patterning for:

Pullover Sweaters

• crew, V, turtleneck

• slim, regular, oversized

Cardigans

• button spacing

• placket width

• collar structures

• pocket placement

Dresses

• rib upper body + flared skirt

• pointelle dress fit

• sweater dresses with shaping panels

Knit Tops

• tank tops

• polo knits

• cropped tops

• fitted rib tops

• long sleeve tops

Outerwear Knits

• heavy gauge

• extended length

• functional rib trims

• double-layer panels

Custom Fit for Corporate and Uniform Knitwear

Uniform knitwear requires:

• consistent long-term fit

• high shrinkage stability

• easy-care durability

• exact color matching

• embroidered or jacquard logos

Factories create:

• office wear cardigans

• school uniform sweaters

• hospitality sweaters

• retail staff knitwear

Uniform fits must maintain consistency for years, not just a single season.

How Fit Is Tested in OEM/ODM Factories

Before approving fit for bulk production, factories conduct:

Wear Tests

To evaluate:

• drape

• comfort

• recovery after movement

Shrinkage Wash Testing

Verifying post-wash measurement stability.

Stretch & Recovery Tests

Especially for rib-knit garments.

Mannequin Fitting

Using men’s, women’s, and kids’ mannequins.

Real Person Fit Trials

Often conducted by brand fit models.

Common Issues in Fit Development — and Factory Solutions

Issue: Garment Too Long After Washing

Cause: viscose growth
Solution: adjust stitch density + steam setting

Issue: Sleeve Twisting

Cause: tension imbalance
Solution: correct panel shaping

Issue: Neckline Too Loose

Cause: weak rib tension
Solution: tighter rib stitch

Issue: Body Width Variance

Cause: needle count inconsistency
Solution: machine recalibration

Issue: Kids Sweater Too Tight

Cause: insufficient ease allowance
Solution: regrade armhole and chest

Fit Consistency Between Sample and Bulk

Factories use the following workflow to maintain consistency:

Pre-Production Sample (PPS)

Defines:

• approved fit

• approved yarn

• approved construction

Size Set Samples

Ensures grading accuracy.

Pilot Run

A small batch before full production.

Bulk QC

Factory checks each lot of:

• body length

• sleeve length

• chest width

• neckline stretch

• rib recovery

Fit Requirements by Yarn Category

Wool / Merino

• requires tighter stitch density

• rib recovery must be strengthened

Cashmere

• softer and looser

• more shrinkage control needed

• necklines require careful linking

Cotton

• risk of twisting

• needs balanced tension

Viscose

• heavy drape

• prone to growth

• requires reinforced stabilizing

Acrylic

• stable dimensions

• ideal for uniform fit consistency

Custom Fit Solutions for Small Brands & Designers

Factories provide flexible services:

• custom measurement charts

• fit recommendations based on target customer

• seasonal adjustments

• low MOQ options

• tech pack assistance

Small brands often request:

• oversized streetwear knits

• fitted rib tops

• women’s cropped sweaters

• bold shoulder silhouettes

Factories adjust patterns to match brand DNA.

Technology Used for Pattern & Fit Development

APEX 3D Simulation (Shima Seiki)

Allows:

• virtual sampling

• stitch simulation

• silhouette preview

M1 Plus (Stoll)

Used for:

• stitch mapping

• gauge planning

• panel shaping

Factory CAD Systems

Used for spec sheets and grading.

These tools reduce sampling rounds and shorten lead time.

Fit & Measurement Checklist for Brands

Factories recommend that brands follow this list:

• final spec sheet approval

• tolerance definition

• shrinkage test results

• neckline stretch measurement

• shoulder slope agreement

• rib height confirmation

• sleeve length after wash

• cuff opening measurement

• across back accuracy

This ensures smooth transition from PPS to bulk.