Waffle Knit & Thermal Knit Structures: OEM/ODM Technical Guide for Knitwear Manufacturers

What Is a Waffle Knit Structure?

Waffle knit is a textured structure created by combining knits, purls, and tuck stitches to form a raised, grid-like pattern resembling a waffle surface.

Key characteristics include:

• Square or grid-like texture

• High volume and surface depth

• Superior breathability

• Effective insulation

• Moderate elasticity

The structure traps air between layers, making it ideal for both warm and cool seasons depending on yarn choice.

What Is a Thermal Knit Structure?

Thermal knit is a type of waffle knit optimized for insulation. It is commonly used in:

• Baselayers

• Thermal tops

• Winter innerwear

• Outdoor clothing

Thermal knits generally feature deeper grids and higher loft, enabling more air to be trapped for better heat retention.

Thermal knits can be produced on both flat-knit and circular-knit machinery, but this guide focuses on flat-knit OEM/ODM production.

How Waffle and Thermal Structures Are Knitted

Waffle and thermal knits rely on combinations of knit, purl, and tuck stitches arranged in repeated patterns.

Factory Programming Considerations:

• Tuck stitches create loft and height

• Purl stitches define the grid structure

• Needle selection defines pattern depth

• Take-down tension determines clarity and elasticity

• Transfer operations may be used for complex grids

A deeper waffle relies on more tuck or purl rows, increasing yarn usage and knitting time.

Gauge Behavior of Waffle & Thermal Knits (3GG–16GG)

The stitch behaves differently across gauges.

Chunky Gauge (3GG–5GG)

• Deep, voluminous waffle

• High insulation

• Ideal for FW sweaters

• Higher yarn consumption (~30–40% more than jersey)

Mid Gauge (7GG–10GG)

• Most commercially popular waffle

• Balanced weight and comfort

• Works for sweaters, cardigans, and loungewear

• Good for transitional seasons

Fine Gauge (12GG–16GG)

• Subtle mini-waffle patterns

• Ideal for premium menswear and base layers

• Requires stable yarn (nylon blends, combed cotton, modal-blends)

• Higher risk of panel distortion

Factories must adjust tension precisely for fine-gauge waffle knits because tuck stitches loosen fabric structure.

Types of Waffle Knit & Thermal Patterns

Single-Layer Waffle

• Lightweight

• Ideal for spring/summer

• Uses minimal tuck stitches

Double-Layer Waffle

• Thicker and warmer

• Raised grid appearance

• Higher yarn consumption

Honeycomb Waffle

• More dimensional pattern

• Strong thermal properties

• Premium appearance

Mini-Waffle

• Subtle grid texture

• Ideal for fine gauge

• Popular in menswear basics

Thermal Grid Knit

• High insulation

• Used extensively in base layers

• Deeper and tighter grid

Each structure varies in weight, breathability, and warmth.

How Waffle Knits Behave in Production

Higher Yarn Consumption

Waffle and thermal knits require additional yarn due to tuck stitches and raised structures.

Typical consumption increase:

• +20–40% more yarn for mid gauge

• +30–50% for chunky waffle

Reduced Width (Horizontal Shrinkage)

The structure contracts horizontally due to tuck stitches pulling fabric inward.
Factories adjust knitting width accordingly.

Increased Vertical Growth

Tuck stitches create vertical elasticity.
Factory must compensate during measurement and blocking.

Slower Knitting Speeds

Because of tuck stitches and pattern complexity, knitting speed must be reduced by 10–30%.

Higher Risk of Panel Distortion

Especially in fine gauge, where waffle patterns can create uneven tension across panels.

Factory solutions include:

• Balanced tuck patterns

• Optimized take-down weights

• Pre-wash testing

• Hand-blocking during finishing

Best Yarn Types for Waffle & Thermal Structures

Cotton & Combed Cotton

• Excellent stitch clarity

• Breathable and comfortable

• Ideal for spring/summer waffle knits

Cotton/Polyester Blends

• Used for thermal and uniform programs

• Improved shrinkage control

• Better durability

Wool & Wool Blends

• Perfect for winter waffle knits

• Strong insulation

• Rich texture

Acrylic/Wool Blends

• Cost-effective

• Good warmth

• Very stable for 3GG–7GG waffle

Viscose/Nylon Blends

• Smooth, drapey waffle patterns

• Strong dimensional stability in 12–16GG

• Popular in women’s fashion knitwear

Modal, Tencel & Regenerated Blends

• Soft and breathable

• Ideal for loungewear

• Works well in mini-waffle fine gauge

Common Production Issues & Factory Solutions

Uneven Waffle Depth

Caused by:

• Tension imbalance

• Incorrect tuck sequence

• Needle wear

Solution:

• Recalibrate feeders

• Ensure consistent needle condition

• Adjust take-down tension

Panel Curling

Happens due to tuck stitches pulling fabric.
Factory:

• Use stabilizing ribs

• Adjust edge structure

• Steam block carefully

Shrinkage Variability

Waffle knits are prone to higher shrinkage due to their loft.

Factory actions:

• Pre-shrink fabric

• Gentle washing

• Panel over-sizing to account for shrinkage

Pilling

More common with soft acrylic or low-twist wool.

Solutions:

• Increase twist

• Add nylon fibers

• Use anti-pilling finishes

Distorted Grids

Grid alignment can shift during washing.

Factory remedies:

• Layered blocking

• Rewash with minimal agitation

• Stitch recalibration

Applications Across Fashion & Performance Categories

Fashion & Lifestyle Brands

• Waffle sweaters

• Waffle cardigans

• Mini-waffle polos

• Fashion basics

• Textured FW tops

Outdoor & Performance Brands

• Thermal base layers

• Mid-weight waffle knits

• Technical cold-weather tops

Loungewear & Athleisure Brands

• Comfortable waffle sets

• Soft-touch modal waffle tops

• Relaxed-fit weekend wear

Children’s Wear

• Breathable and soft

• Great stretch and durability

Uniform & Schoolwear

• Polyester/cotton waffle

• High durability and shape retention

OEM/ODM Workflow for Waffle & Thermal Knitwear

Design Interpretation

Factory analyzes:

• Grid depth

• Pattern repeat

• Panel width adjustments

• Gauge compatibility

Machine Programming

Programming includes:

• Tuck patterns

• Grid logic

• Multi-needle bed utilization

• Structure density

Sampling Phase

Sampling includes:

• Waffle swatch

• Fit sample

• Shrinkage test

• PPS sample

Lead time: 4–6 days, depending on pattern complexity.

Bulk Production

• Slower machine speed

• Real-time tension monitoring

• Needle inspection

• Yarn lot consistency

Finishing & QC

• Gentle washing

• Controlled blocking

• Dimensional stability tests

• Measuring grid accuracy

• Pilling testing