Wool / Merino Yarn Guide for Knitwear Manufacturers

Merino Yarn in OEM/ODM Factory Production

Merino behaves differently from cotton, acrylic, and synthetic fibers. High-precision control is required in yarn preparation, knitting, linking, washing, and final finishing.

Yarn Tension Sensitivity

Merino is extremely sensitive to machine tension variations.

Issues if tension is uncontrolled:

• Panel length differences

• Inconsistent width across the same batch

• Needle breaks or floating stitches

Factory countermeasures:

• Adjust yarn feeders and carrier speed

• Use stabilized wax/oil during rewinding

• Maintain fixed workshop humidity (50–65%)

Stitch Structure Compatibility

Merino works well with a wide range of stitch types:

• 18GG Jersey: fine-gauge sweaters, premium basics

• 12GG Links-Links: commercial sweaters for fashion brands

• 7GG Cable Knit: voluminous but lightweight

• 3GG Chunky Knit: premium winter items

Note: Lower GG requires stronger twist to avoid pilling.

Shrinkage Control (Critical)

Wool fibers naturally shrink when exposed to heat, agitation, and moisture.

Expected shrinkage without special treatment:

• 5–12% in length

• 4–10% in width

OEM factory solutions:

• Apply Superwash anti-shrink treatment

• Use controlled washing temperature (below 30°C for non-Superwash)

• Block garments thoroughly during linking and after washing

Dyeing Stability Issues

Merino absorbs dye well but is prone to shade variation.

Risks:

• Batch-to-batch color inconsistency

• Uneven absorption

• Color bleeding during washing

Controls:

• Use fiber-dyed (top-dyed) batches for large orders

• Standardize pre-treatment and scouring

• Maintain pH and temperature uniformity in vats