Rib, Purl, and Jersey Knit Fundamentals: OEM/ODM Guide for Knitwear Manufacturers

Jersey Knit: The Foundation of All Knitwear

What Is Jersey Knit?

Jersey is the most basic and widely used knit structure, created by knitting all stitches in one direction on a single needle bed. It is smooth on the face and looped or textured on the reverse.

Key characteristics:

• Smooth front surface

• Excellent drape

• Good stretch (mainly horizontal)

• Fast knitting speed

• Low yarn consumption

• Versatile across all gauges

Jersey fabric is the “default” structure for most knit garments, especially fine-gauge sweaters and tops.

Jersey in OEM/ODM Production

Gauge Behavior

• 3GG–5GG: thick, textured jersey

• 7GG–10GG: balanced jersey for FW sweaters

• 12GG–16GG: premium fine-gauge jersey for men’s basics

Jersey is the easiest stitch to produce at scale, making it ideal for large-volume retail programs.

Tension Management

Jersey reacts strongly to tension differences.
Too tight → stiff fabric
Too loose → fabric grows and loses structure

Factories fine-tune:

• Yarn feeding speed

• Take-down tension

• Machine lubrication

• Needle condition

Shrinkage & Stability

Jersey has a natural tendency to shrink vertically and grow horizontally.

Factory solutions include:

• Pre-shrink washing

• Steam blocking

• Balanced yarn twist

• Rib trims to stabilize edges

Common Applications

• Fine-gauge menswear sweaters

• Women’s jersey tops

• Knit polos

• Kids’ basics

• Uniform knitwear

• Lightweight spring/summer sweaters

Purl Knit: Soft, Textured, and Reversible

What Is a Purl Stitch?

Purl knitting reverses the loop direction, creating a textured surface that looks identical on both sides.
Purl is the opposite of jersey:

• Jersey front looks like purl back

• Purl front looks like jersey back

Purl knits often appear in textured panels, premium basics, and luxury fine-gauge collections.

Key characteristics:

• Soft, plush hand-feel

• Reversible aesthetic

• Greater volume than jersey

• Very flexible and stretchy

• More yarn usage than jersey

Purl in OEM/ODM Production

Gauge Behavior

• 3GG–7GG: thick, cozy purl textures

• 8GG–12GG: structured purl patterns

• 14GG–16GG: elegant fine purl for luxury knits

Purl stitches take longer to knit, increasing knitting time by ~20–40%.

Tension Management

Purl is more sensitive to tension compared to jersey.

Improper tension causes:

• Uneven texture

• Panel distortion

• Excessive shrinkage

• Unbalanced drape

Factories adjust:

• Lower knitting speed

• Stable humidity

• Balanced feeder tension

• Reinforced collars/edges

Applications

• High-end women’s sweaters

• Reversible knitwear

• Soft-touch basics

• Premium men’s fine-gauge sweaters

• Wide-rib/purl hybrid structures

Rib Knit: Structure, Elasticity, Shape Retention

What Is Rib Knit?

Rib knit alternates knit and purl stitches within the same row. Common rib types include:

• 1×1 rib

• 2×2 rib

• 3×3 rib

• Milano rib

• Fisherman rib

Key characteristics:

• Excellent stretch and recovery

• Highly elastic horizontally

• Perfect for trims and cuffs

• Creates sculpted silhouettes

• Clean, linear aesthetic

Rib knitting is one of the most structurally stable stitch types, ideal for both functional and decorative use.

Rib in OEM/ODM Production

Gauge Behavior

• 3GG–7GG: thick, durable fisherman and chunky ribs

• 8GG–12GG: commercial ribs for sweaters/cardigans

• 14GG–16GG: refined ribs for premium brands

Rib is more yarn-intensive than jersey and takes longer to knit due to double-sided structure.

Tension & Stability

Rib stitches naturally contract, causing panels to pull inward.
Factories must pre-compensate width during knitting.

Factory techniques include:

• Adjusting stitch density

• Using tighter twist yarn for clarity

• Blocking carefully after washing

• Using stabilizing links-links panels

Shrinkage & Elasticity

Rib shrinks more vertically due to elasticity.
Factory must:

• Pre-wash test multiple times

• Control GSM

• Reinforce necklines to prevent stretching

Applications

• Sweater cuffs, collars, waistbands

• Full-body rib knit tops

• Sculpted silhouettes

• Polo collars

• Luxury fine-gauge rib sweaters

• Athleisure and fitted knitwear

Comparing Jersey vs Purl vs Rib (Technical Perspective)

This comparison helps designers and buyers choose the correct stitch structure for a specific product.

How These Stitches Influence Garment Fit and Performance

Jersey → relaxed, drapey, lightweight

Perfect for fine-gauge basics and soft silhouettes.

Purl → plush, reversible, voluminous

Ideal for cozy sweaters and premium textures.

Rib → elastic, sculpted, stable

Best for trims, fitted silhouettes, and active-inspired styles.

The right structure dramatically affects garment fit, hand-feel, durability, and consumer perception.

Common Production Challenges & Factory Solutions

Panel Growth (Jersey & Purl)

Caused by low tension or soft fibers.
Solutions:

• Adjust take-down speed

• Use higher twist yarn

• Apply steam blocking

Edge Curling (Jersey)

Classic issue for jersey fabrics.
Solutions:

• Add rib trim

• Add Links-Links edge structure

• Adjust stitch density

Pilling (All three structures)

Especially with low-twist yarns.
Solutions:

• Increase twist

• Use nylon blends

• Apply anti-pilling finish

Dimensional Instability

Rib shrinks vertically; jersey grows horizontally.
Solutions:

• Re-balance stitch density

• Conduct multiple wash tests

• Use stabilizing structures

Best Yarn Types for Each Stitch Structure

Jersey

• Merino wool

• Cotton/combed cotton

• Viscose/nylon blends

• Silk blends

• Tencel/modal

Purl

• Wool and wool blends

• Acrylic/wool blends

• Cotton/cotton blends

• Viscose/modal blends

Rib

• Wool/nylon

• Cotton/spandex

• Polyester blends for uniform knitwear

• Fine cashmere blends (luxury ribs)

Correct yarn selection determines clarity, performance, and garment stability.

Applications Across Fashion & Performance Markets

Luxury Brands

• Fine-gauge rib sweaters

• Premium jersey pullovers

• Cashmere purl sweaters

High-Street Brands

• Commercial jersey basics

• Ribbed cardigans

• Cotton purl FW sweaters

Sportswear & Athleisure

• Ribbed active tops

• Stretch-infused jersey basics

• Structured rib trims

Uniform & Corporate Knitwear

• Polyester/rayon ribs

• Stable jersey polos

Children’s Wear

• Soft purl textures

• Easy-wear jersey

• Durable ribs

OEM/ODM Workflow for Rib, Purl, and Jersey Knitwear

Design Evaluation

Factory evaluates:

• Desired structure

• Gauge

• Yarn type

• Fit requirements

• Trim details

Programming

• Jersey → simple programming

• Purl → increased cam switching

• Rib → dual-system programming

Sampling

Includes:

• Stitch swatches

• First sample

• Shrinkage test

• Fit confirmation

• PPS (Pre-Production Sample)

Lead time: 2–4 days for most structures.

Bulk Production

• Real-time tension monitoring

• MES tracking

• Yarn lot consistency

• Needle checks

Finishing & QC

• Shrinkage verification

• Blocking

• Pilling tests

• Measurement control

• Edge stability checks