Cotton & Organic Cotton for Knitwear OEM: Technical Guide for Brands and Manufacturers
Cotton and organic cotton remain foundational materials for global knitwear programs—from lightweight sweaters and polo knits to summer tops, cardigans, and children’s wear. Their breathable nature, stable cost, high durability, and universal consumer acceptance make them ideal for both fast-fashion and mid-to-premium brands. However, cotton behaves very differently from wool, synthetic fibers, and regenerated fibers in factory production.
For OEM/ODM knitwear manufacturers, cotton presents technical challenges in tension control, skewing (twisting after washing), shrinkage, color consistency, and stitch clarity—especially when running styles across multiple gauges (1.5GG–16GG). This cotton yarns guide provides a complete, factory-level technical overview to help brands develop cotton knitwear with predictable quality and scalable production.
Understanding Cotton Fiber Properties
Cotton is a natural cellulose fiber with excellent breathability, skin comfort, and versatility. Whether a brand selects conventional cotton or organic cotton, the base fiber shares similar physical characteristics that affect knitting behavior and finishing.
Fiber Structure & Performance
Cotton fibers are composed of 88–96% cellulose, giving them:
Excellent moisture absorption
High breathability
Strong durability
Stable dye uptake
Comfortable skin feel
Manufacturing implications:
Cotton is easy to knit but prone to skewing due to natural fiber twist
Fabric tends to grow (stretch) during wearing
Heavy garments need rib stability or engineered panels
Cotton vs Organic Cotton
Conventional Cotton
Widely available
Lower cost
Stable supply chain
Suitable for large-volume orders
Organic Cotton (GOTS Certified)
Grown without pesticides or synthetic fertilizers
Higher fiber purity
Slightly longer staple length
Premium brand positioning
Higher yarn cost (+10–20%)
Consumer perception is strong—organic cotton supports sustainability-driven collections.
Staple Length Matters
Cotton staple length affects yarn strength and fabric stability.
Short-staple (low cost): higher pilling, less durable
Medium-staple: balanced performance
Long-staple (Pima, Egyptian): premium softness + better consistency
Brands must align staple grade with product price point and expected performance.
Cotton Yarn Types Used in Knitwear Production
Different spinning processes and yarn constructions produce very different fabric behaviors.
Combed Cotton
Combed cotton undergoes an additional combing process to remove impurities and short fibers.
Benefits:
Smoother hand-feel
Increased durability
Less pilling
More even stitch look
Common applications:
Fine-gauge knits (12GG–18GG)
POLO knitwear
Women’s fashion basics
Carded Cotton
More cost-effective, contains more short fibers.
Applications:
3GG–7GG chunky cotton sweaters
Casual lifestyle brands
Youth and seasonal wear
Not recommended for luxury or fine gauge.
Mercerized Cotton (Silk-like Shine)
Mercerization involves a caustic soda treatment that:
Improves dye uptake
Adds silky sheen
Enhances dimensional stability
Ideal for:
Polo shirts
Men’s premium knitwear
Lightweight summer tops
Manufacturing requirement:
Lower tension due to smoother surface
High stitch definition recommended (piqué, jersey, mesh)
Organic Cotton (GOTS / OCS)
Demand is increasing rapidly in Europe and North America.
Key benefits for brands:
Sustainability storytelling
Better marketability for children’s wear
Strong buyer preference in eco-conscious markets
Cotton Blends
Often used to improve durability or functionality.
Common blends:
Cotton/Polyester
Cotton/Nylon
Cotton/Viscose
Cotton/Linen
Cotton/Acrylic
Purpose:
Reduce shrinkage
Improve stability
Create fashion textures
Reduce cost
How Cotton Behaves in OEM/ODM Knitting Production
Cotton is generally easy to knit, but achieving consistent quality requires addressing its inherent weaknesses.
Tension Control & Machine Settings
Cotton has low elasticity compared with wool or synthetic fibers.
Factory adjustments:
Increase machine take-down tension
Stabilize yarn feeders
Adjust yarn lubrication
Reduce machine speed for high-gauge (14–18GG)
If tension is too low:
Fabric grows excessively
Panels stretch beyond spec
If tension is too high:
Fabric becomes stiff
Needles break more frequently
The Skewing Problem (Serious for Cotton)
Cotton jersey fabric is prone to twisting after washing—especially in fine gauges.
Solutions:
Use balanced twist yarn
Adjust GSM
Optimize knit structure (e.g., add Links-Links balance panels)
Pre-wash test multiple times
Dimensional stability finishing
Skewing is one of the most common cotton QC risks in bulk production.
Shrinkage Behavior
Cotton shrinkage varies depending on yarn preparation and finishing.
Typical shrinkage values:
Length: 4–8%
Width: 2–6%
Factory controls:
Pre-shrinking
Soft washing
Steam blocking
Controlled tumble-drying for commercial brands
Stitch Definition
Cotton provides clearer stitch texture than wool.
Best for:
Cable knits
Waffle knits
Ribs
Piqué patterns
Cotton stitches appear clean and crisp, making it ideal for spring/summer structure-heavy collections.
Gauge Selection for Cotton Knitwear
Gauge affects product weight, drape, and cost.
1.5GG–5GG (Textured / Chunky Cotton)
Applications:
Heavy cotton sweaters
Loose summer pullovers
Fisherman rib cotton
Characteristics:
Sturdy, casual look
Higher fabric weight
Strong stitch definition
7GG–10GG (Transitional Seasonal Knitwear)
Suitable for:
Spring/fall knit tops
Cardigans
Men’s casualwear
Balanced: not too heavy, not too light.
12GG–16GG (Lightweight Cotton & Polo Knits)
Ideal for premium or office-style knitwear.
Applications:
POLO knits
Fine-gauge sweaters
Women’s fitted tops
Corporate uniform knitwear
Factory concerns:
Requires long-staple cotton to avoid pilling
Must control shrinkage carefully
Common Production Issues & How Factories Solve Them
Pilling
Causes:
Short fibers in carded cotton
Abrasion during washing
Aggressive surface friction
Solutions:
Choose combed or long-staple cotton
Use enzyme wash to smooth surface
Conduct pilling tests (ISO 12945)
Shrinkage Failures
Cotton shrinks more than wool or synthetics.
Controls:
Pre-shrink panels
Steam block at correct temperature
Full wash test before PPS approval
Growth (Fabric Stretch-Out)
Cotton fabric tends to grow during wearing.
Factory fixes:
Add rib structure for stability
Increase GSM
Adjust take-down tension during knitting
Use blend yarn (cotton/nylon) for support
Color Issues
Cotton dyes well but may encounter defects:
Shade differences
Uneven color
Color bleeding
Factory prevents this via:
Pre-scouring the yarn
Standardized dye bath control
Using fiber-dyed cotton for consistency
Applications for OEM Cotton Knitwear Manufacturing
Cotton is one of the most versatile fibers for brand development.
Spring/Summer Knitwear
Breathable sweaters
Lightweight cardigans
Summer knit tops
Openwork cotton designs
Polo Shirts and Piqué Knitwear
Cotton is ideal for polo structures:
Piqué
Milano rib
Links-Links
Birdseye patterns
Mercerized cotton is strongly recommended for luxury polos.
Casual Fashion & High-Street Brands
Transitional seasonal products
Mid-weight cotton sweaters
Kids & baby knitwear
Sustainable Cotton Collections
Organic cotton basics
GOTS-certified lines
Eco-conscious knitwear for EU/UK markets
OEM/ODM Development Workflow with Cotton Yarn
Yarn Sourcing
Factories typically source cotton from:
Huafu
Bros
Shandong Ruyi
Esquel
Luthai
For organic cotton, suppliers must provide OCS or GOTS certificates.
Sampling
Standard process:
Lab dips
Test panel knitting
Shrinkage test
First prototype sample
Fit correction
PPS (Pre-production Sample) approval
Lead time: 3–5 days for most cotton styles.
Bulk Production
Key controls:
Stable machine tension
Yarn lot consistency
MES tracking for large programs
Color inspection per batch
Washing & Finishing
Cotton finishing varies by product type.
Options:
Enzyme wash (reduces hairiness)
Softening
Pre-shrink finishing
Steam blocking
Light tumble-dry (commercial brands)
Quality Inspection
QC checks include:
Shrinkage test (2× or 3× wash)
Pilling grade (ISO 12945)
Colorfastness (ISO 105 standards)
Dimensional stability
Measurement accuracy
