Custom Knitwear Manufacturer Guide - The Complete OEM/ODM Buyer Handbook
Xindi Knitwear Expert
Xindi Knitwear industry specialist sharing OEM/ODM manufacturing knowledge, yarn insights, and sweater production solutions for global fashion brands.
As global fashion brands accelerate product cycles and diversify knitwear categories, partnering with a reliable OEM/ODM knitwear manufacturer has become one of the most strategic choices for DTC labels, fashion houses, retailers, and e-commerce brands.
This guide provides an end-to-end explanation of how custom knitwear is developed, produced, controlled, and delivered—based on real industry processes used by top factories in Dalang, Dongguan, the world’s largest sweater manufacturing hub.
What Is Custom Knitwear Manufacturing?
Custom knitwear manufacturing refers to the process in which a specialized factory transforms a brand’s design concept, sketch, or tech pack into fully finished knitted garments—such as sweaters, cardigans, dresses, tops, and accessories—through OEM or ODM production models.
OEM vs ODM – Key Differences
OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer)
Brand provides full tech pack / measurements / artwork / pictures
Factory follows exact specifications
Suitable for brands with strong design capabilities
Ensures consistency with brand identity
ODM (Original Design Manufacturer)
Factory provides original designs or seasonal collections
Brand can modify details, colors, yarns
Suitable for smaller brands, startups, and buyers who need quick-to-market styles
Lower development burden
Summary:
OEM = brand-controlled design
ODM = factory-supported design
Which Brands Are Best Suited for OEM/ODM?
DTC brands → Require fast sampling, flexible MOQ, and consistent fit
Boutiques & independent designers → Benefit from ODM ideas and low MOQ
Department stores & retailers → Need scalable capacity, strong QC
Fast fashion brands → Require large daily output, wide yarn sourcing, rapid lead times
Why Global Brands Outsource Knitwear Production
Access to advanced computerized knitting machines (1.5GG–16GG)
Significantly lower production cost compared to in-house manufacturing
Factories handle sourcing, knitting, linking, washing, QC, packing under one system
Our factory offer yarn inventory, reducing lead times
Professional QC teams minimize risk and ensure consistency
Full Knitwear OEM Workflow (From Development to Bulk Production)
Knitwear development follows a structured, technical sequence. Each step affects tension, gauge, sizing stability, and final garment performance.
Step 1 — Tech Pack / Sketch / Inspiration
Brands may submit:
Full tech pack
Photo reference
Physical sample to replicate
Seasonal moodboard or color stories
The factory confirms:
Measurements ( back neck to bottom length, chest width, sleeve length)
Yarn composition
Finishing requirements
Labeling, packing & trims
Step 2 — Yarn Selection (Merino / Cashmere / Cotton / Blends)
Yarn determines:
Handfeel
Weight
Gauge compatibility
Price
Pilling performance
Common choices:
Merino Wool, Mohair , Alpaca (soft, warm, premium)
Cashmere (luxury handfeel, lightweight warmth)
Cotton & Organic Cotton (breathable, all-season)
Acrylic / Blends (cost-effective, stable)
Recycled Yarns (GRS) (eco-friendly, traceable)
Step 3 — Stitch & Gauge Selection (3GG–18GG)
Gauge affects density, weight, and aesthetic.
1.5-3GG: chunky, winter sweaters (boyfriend, oversized styles)
5GG–7GG: mid-weight knitwear
9GG–12GG: classic pullovers
14GG–16GG: fine-gauge premium sweaters
Stitch options:
Cable, jacquard, intarsia, rib, waffle, pointelle, links-links, Milano, etc.
Step 4 — Sampling & Fit Approval
Sampling timeline: 3–5 days for our factory
Fit review includes:
Balance of front/back panels
Armhole shaping
Neck opening
Sleeve pitch
Shrinkage after washing
Ironing
A corrected second sample may be produced before bulk.
Step 5 — Bulk Production (Knitting / Linking / QA)
Bulk stages include:
Knitting – computerized machines execute programmed patterns
Paneling – body, sleeves, collar panels produced separately
Linking – hand-linking or auto-linking for clean seams
Washing – softening, steam blocking, pre-shrink
Finishing – trims, labels, button attachment
In-line QC – tension, density, measurement checks
Step 6 — Final QC + Packing
Final QC ensures:
Correct measurements
Consistent tension
No loose threads
Pilling test results
Color fastness
Clean finishing
Packing includes polybags, brand labels, carton marks.
Step 7 — Export & Shipping (DDP/FOB/EXW)
Common methods:
FOB China port
DDP to USA/EU warehouses
CIF ocean shipment
Air freight for urgent orders
Key Factors Brands Consider When Choosing a Factory
Production Capacity (Machines + Technicians)
Large factories: 100–200+ machines (we have 100+)
Skilled linking workers ensure clean seams
Digital pattern programmers for complex jacquards
Speed of Sampling (3–5 Days)
Faster sampling = faster pre-sales = faster season launch.
MOQ Flexibility
Low-MOQ factories support startup brands (Our moq starts from 50 units)
High-capacity factories handle 10,000+ pcs per style
Yarn Inventory & In-Stock Colors
Available yarn = reduced lead time.
Important for DTC and fast-fashion brands.
Stitch Capability (Jacquard, Intarsia, Cable, Pointelle)
More stitch capability = wider design freedom.
Yarn Options for Custom Knitwear
Wool / Merino Wool
Warm, breathable, high elasticity, luxury performance.
Cashmere
Softest handfeel, premium pricing, excellent insulation.
Cotton / Organic Cotton
Hypoallergenic, breathable, ideal for spring/summer.
Acrylic / Blends
Budget-friendly, stable, easy-care.
Recycled Fibers (GRS Certified)
High demand for sustainability compliance.
Bamboo, Modal, Tencel
Eco-friendly alternatives with smooth, silky handfeel.
Common Custom Knitwear Types
Sweaters
Crewneck, V-neck, mock neck, turtleneck.
Cardigans
Long-line cardigans, cropped styles, heavy-gauge winter options.
Hoodies
Cable knit, waffle knit, double-knit, textured knit, oversized essentials-style, zip-up knitted
Knitwear Dresses & Tops
Rib dresses, polo knits, tank tops, fitted tees.
Accessories
Beanies, scarves, gloves, neck warmers.
Customization Options
Gauge (1.5GG–16GG)
Directly affects weight and texture.
Stitch Types
Cable, waffle, rib, pointelle, jacquard, intarsia.
Silhouette & Fit
Oversized, relaxed, boxy, slim-fit, bodycon.
Trims
Buttons, metal zippers, embroidery, leather patches, woven labels.
Color Options (color cards of yarns)
Pick up color from our yarn color card for your best design.
Knitwear Quality Control Checklist
Shrinkage Control
Pre-washing and steam blocking reduce post-wash variance.
Pilling Grade
Tested using Martindale abrasion standards.
Tension Consistency
Ensures uniform texture across panels.
Measurement Tolerance
Typically ±1–2 cm depending on fit.
Color Fastness
Sweat, rubbing, and washing tests ensure durability.
Cost Structure of Custom Knitwear
Yarn Cost
Main cost driver—cashmere > merino > cotton > acrylic.
Craftsmanship Cost (Gauge & Complexity)
Finer gauge = more stitches = higher price
Cable or jacquard = higher workmanship cost
Pattern & Sample Fee
Covers programming, linking, and fit adjustments.
Packaging, Tags, Branding
Custom labels, wash-care tags, woven patches, polybags.
How to Work With a Knitwear Factory
How to Submit a Tech Pack
Include:
Full measurements
Stitch details
Yarn composition
Color references
Label position
Branding elements
Packaging instructions
Sampling Timeline
3–5 working days for first proto.
Common Mistakes
Incomplete tech packs
Missing measurements
Unclear gauge or stitch requirements
Unrealistic timelines
How to Reduce Revisions
Approve yarn before sampling
Confirm gauge early
Provide reference sample if possible
Approve fit on mannequin or model
Case Studies (2025)
Zara Sample Recreation
Recreating a jacquard cardigan with precise tension, colorwork, and measurements.
Low-MOQ Startup Brand (Norway Influencer Brands)
ODM-driven development to launch a full 20-piece (S – M – L size) knitwear collection under low MOQ.
Jacquard Holiday Sweater Project (EU Xmas Ugly Sweaters)
5000+ pcs delivered in 3 weeks using computerized jacquard knitting.
